Chaotic Kathmandu and Dancing Monks

Fay and Judy conquer Kalar Pattar with Everest towering overhead

Monks at Tengboche during Mani rimdu celebrations

Group photo at Tengboche, Everest in background

Traffic you’ll encounter on the mountain

Heading up the trail (Ama Dablam in background)

Heading down to Lobuche

‘We knocked the bastard off!!’ the emphatic cry from my tired body as I rounded the top of Kalar Pattar (5545m) after a three hour uphill slog from Gorak Shep (5100m). As I took a breather, my gaze swept over the stunning panorama. It was a beautiful, clear, sunny day and with the mid-afternoon sun the peaks of Lhotse, Nuptse and the omnipotent Everest took on an almost iridescent sheen reinforcing the majestic scene.

Judy and Fay were cracking jokes with the sherpas and head guide as they posed for photos. A few Kodak moments and a snickers bar later, a fierce wind blew up reminding us of the harsh conditions and forcing us back down the mountainside. The descent was much quicker and an hour later we were sitting with a steaming cup of tea in our hands back at the Gorak Shep teahouse that would be our home for the next two nights.

Each teahouse had a unique atmosphere. This one, the highest we would sleep at, proved to be a boon with its central potbelly stove, wooden tables surrounded by cushioned seats and a good vibe amongst the travelers gathered there. This day was Judy’s birthday so after a delicious dinner of mashed potatoes and vege chow mein, we were surprised by a scrumptious cake for dessert. Shortly after that we hit the hay, it was not even 7 pm but at altitude your daily routine is confined to the bare minimum. In order to get you through the day and with those icy external temperatures, the warmest spot to head for was usually inside your down sleeping bag.

Over our 18-day Everest Base Camp trek we ascended approximately 3000 vertical metres, averaging five hours on walking days and three on our acclimatization days. We lived above 3900m for over ten days, and this was definitely the most challenging physical test I have encountered.

Having said that, the views were amazing, the treatment by local staff was phenomenal and the sense of camaraderie and achievement made it all worthwhile. I have a new respect for our great fellow countryman Sir Ed. and I hope to return to this area of Nepal again as the experience was, quite simply, exhilarating.

One of the things that added to the tour was our rafting trip on the Seti River. While only a class II-III rating, the scenery was breathtaking and the crew whipped up the most amazing meals on a campfire. While we never came close to falling out, the water splashing up during the rapids was refreshing and this was the perfect river for beginner paddlers, although there are many different ones available in Nepal depending on your experience.

Wherever you go in Nepal you will encounter friendly, fun loving people with a deep faith. Whether Hindus or Buddhists, evidence of their ubiquitous devoutness results in fascinating festivals and will challenge you no matter what your religious background. We saw bodies cremated on riverbanks and then the remains scattered in the water as well as Buddhist monks performing mesmerizing ancient rituals that involved dancing, clanging cymbals and bellowing bugles.

Kathmandu was a cultural mish-mash with the modern standing alongside the ancient and the tourist alongside the city dwellers going about their daily business. The streets were filled with pretty much every form of transport known to man from pedestrian, livestock, bikes, rickshaws, rusting jalopies, big lorries belching out black smoke and the odd monkey running around for good measure adding to the mayhem. Nepal is a magical place and after this visit I feel I have only scratched the surface, fueling my desire to return. I look forward to trekking in the West and discovering other parts of this delightful country.

- Eileen Cameron, 2007