Guatemala: Antigua & Climbing Volcan Pacaya

Volcan de Agua (3,700mtrs) dominates Antigua’s skyline

La Merced church, an outstanding example of colonial architecture

Full of energy before we start the climb.

Crossing the “old” crater

The UNESCO World Heritage City of Antigua Guatemala ranks amongst the world's best conserved colonial cities. A treasure trove of colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, ornate archways, fountains and patios, Antigua is dramatically located in the shadow of three majestic volcanoes.

Founded in 1543, Antigua became the third most important Spanish colony in the Americas reaching a population of 80,000 at its zenith. More than 30 monastic orders called Antigua home and built stunning monasteries, convents and cathedrals in the town. The conquistadors named the city La Muy Noble y Muy Leal Ciudad de Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala ("The Very Noble and Very Loyal City of Santiago of the Knights of Guatemala"), in honor of their patron saint, Santiago, or St. James.

In 1773 the area suffered two severe earthquakes, destroying much of the town. The Spanish Crown ordered the city to be rebuilt at a safer location and the new town became modern Guatemala City. Although in 1776 the Crown ordered that the badly damaged old city be abandoned. However not everyone left and today Antigua has been restored to be one of the most fascinating and historical cities in all the Americas. It really is a magical and captivating place where it is very easy to feel that time stopped some 300 years ago.

While in Antigua last year members of our party elected to hike to the summit of a nearby active volcano, Volcan Pacaya. This active volcano, about an hour from Antigua is popular with travellers because it is reasonably easy to climb and on sunny days the views are incredible. Sadly for us the weather clouded in somewhat, but that did not detract from the excitement of the day.

The trail began from the Park entrance at 1,800 meters, a concrete pathway heading through scrubby trees, surely this wasn’t going all the way to the top, that would be too easy, we were here to climb a mountain! It certainly wasn’t the case and all too soon we were zigzagging steadily up a shaded dirt and stone foot trail.

After an hour or so we broke free of the trees onto an undulating meadow and there, dominating the skyline was the dark and foreboding form of Volcan Pacaya, one of Guatemala’s many perfectly formed active volcanoes. From here the terrain changed dramatically and we began the hard bit, an hour’s ascent up the steep barren scoria covered slopes to the summit at 2,560 mtrs. Progress was slow as we inched our way up the cone, sliding back one step for each two forward and pausing occasionally to enjoy the views that were magnificent if fleeting, as by now the clouds were closing in.

Reaching the summit we indian filed our way across the “old crater” - not that old we were told as apparently it had been the “active” crater until just a few months prior! As we picked our way across the warm rocks amidst wisps of steam we were acutely aware that this “old” crater wasn’t dead yet! Reaching the highest point we gingerly peered into yellow sulphur-lined vents that noisily belched clouds of steam and smelly sulphuric gases, this was certainly not a place to linger. After quickly taking some “been there, done that photos” it was a relief to escape the crater area and breathe fresh air again.

Retracing our way down scoria slopes was great fun, as we haphazardly slipped and slid our way to the bottom. Once on terra firma we stopped for a quick snack before hiking back down the trail to our waiting transport. The climb had taken us almost 5 hours return, it had certainly been exciting. Although this hike does require some stamina, it is achievable for anyone of average fitness and reasonable agility.